Thursday, April 25, 2013

The Egyptian Museum, Tahrir Square and the Old Synagogue

This is the must see museum of Cairo.  We all remember the touring King Tut exhibit?  Well, it may have been better displayed, but the traveling show didn't hold a candle to what was left at home!  It is purported to be the most significant collection of antiquities in the world.  Understandably, no photography was allowed inside, but I was ablt to snatch a few photos outside.






And the above three pics of Mubarak's burned out residence on Tahrir Square was about as close as we got to the "revolution".  (I refer to it in quotes, as does about everyone who speaks about it, which is just about everyone.  Most appear to agree that a change was needed, but most seem  to view Morsi with contempt, and to feel that the country is moving backward instead of forward.  They also all agree that the bad press, about conflict between devout and non-devout Moslems, Moslems and Christians, etc., has all been contrived.  In any event, while Friday on Tahrir Square would be the day of "protest" if there were to be any, we were early enough in the day to have avoided trouble if there was any (which, apparently, there wasn't).

Back to the Museum.  The physical plant itself was disappointing.  The building was built in the early 1900's, and looks it.  Not only is the lighting terrible, but it was stuffy, and certainly poorly signed, and without places for a sicky like me to rest (we several times had to roust the workers in the museuem (who don't seem  to do much working, by the way) f rom  the few benches there were.  We had a guide, however (yes, we are spending money like drunken sailors, but if ever there was a once in a lifetime event, this trip is it, so hey....)

So beyond the rest of the King Tut haul (by the way, it is probably five times the amount that went on tour, not as flashy, perhaps, but fascinating nonetheless.  The guide pooh-poohed the curse of the tomb notion - you remember the death of all concerned - includng Carter, the discoverer of the tomb, and his dog, shortly after the discovery - attributing the deaths instead to bacteria being released from the tomb upon opening)...

Okay, even I can't keep a sentence going that long.  So, beyond Tut, there are Old Kingdom  rooms, an entire room  dedicated to jewelry found at Tanis, the largest ruined city on the Nile Delta, Graeco-Roman mummy portraits, and even animal mummies, and much, much more.

Once we reached air again, about three hours later, we pursued my one hidden agenda item, that is, to see the Old Synagogue.  The guide was accommodating (as always), and aside from the vagaries of Cairo traffic had no problems getting us to the place.





The tour guide made some attempt to get us in, but apparently, admission is Sunday morning at 10 A.M. only, for an English speaking tour (I guess I'm not the first person to have asked!).  I did find out that the synagogue itself is 200 years old - it is certainly showing its age less than other buildings in Cairo - but there are only 22 Jews left and not enough for a minion (a service requires 10 men).  The guide said that as these Jews didn't leave on the founding of Israel, they were considered to be "Egyptian"; she claims there have been no problems between the Moslems and the remaining Jewish community, and, indeed, I don't remember hearing of any.

And, finally, we went off to the tour guide's hidden agenda. the papyrus factory.





They actually did have some lovely things there, and had I been into spending that kind of money, I might  have indulged, but both Hank and I resented being pressured, and by this time I had reached the end of my admittedly limited endurance, and so refused all purchases and headed for home.

On the seemingly endless trip home, we passed - yet again - the huge City of the Dead - where families had been building tombs for their dearly departed from  time immemoriable.  However, apparently 2,000,000 real live (albeit poor) people live there now, and it is a thriving, happening (did I mention poor?) place.

(Have I mentioned that the  pooulation of Egypt is 80,000,000, of which 20,000,000 live in Cairo?  (Cairo's pooulation would be considerably more -  if Giza (home of the Pyramids and just accross the Nile) were counted, Cairo would be the largest city in the world.) Ten million more live in Alexandria, and the rest in the Nile Delta.

And, finally, home to Ted's, just in time; I didn't think I could keep my body verticle one more minute!. 





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