I can't believe that tonight is our last opera, Gotterdamerung (or, as it is now sometimes referred to, I Saw the World End). More about the opera later, but first, some general comments. Like all things that last for more than a blink of an eye, these things develop a rhythm. You see the same people at breakfast, and by the end you are chatting away in a variety of languages (although the Germans speak English very well). You are traveling the same tourist circuit. You are sitting next to the same people at the opera. You have a favourite cafe, and know how to get there (not that Bayreuth is that big). In short, as David used to say, now that we know how to get around, it is time to leave.
But first, a few adventures. For example, having asked for a taxi to take me up to the Festspielhaus, I went to use the public washroom - and found that the inner door handle had been removed and I was locked in! And, fancy as the hotel was, there was no telephone in the bathroom! (and yes, Bill, I have to admit, it would have been nice to have my phone!!! ) Anyway, after only a few minutes of banging on the door and asking for "Hilfe", I was duly rescued, no harm done except to my ego,\.
The lecture on Gotterdamerung at the Festspielhaus was completely in German, with not a crib sheet to be found. Unfortunately, what I could understand was the stuff I already knew. Anything about the director (Castor, famous German theater director who has never done an opera before) and his vision went right over my head. (A fellow patron tried to give me the Coles Notes version, but it wasn't quite the same. I did find out that the director is 64, gay, and from East Germany, all of which have informed his work.)
New friends Birgitte and Hennig provided some insight on the copulating crocodile - I kid you not - though. Apparently it is a standard in German puppet theater. The crocodile part, not the copulating part. In the puppet theater, the crocodile is content with eating its prey!! Both Peter and I had noticed the almost total lack of English in and around the Festival. Admittedly, the Festival is only a week, and there is no reason to visit Bayreuth otherwise, but still... From German's who had been to the festival before, we learned that there had been more English translations available in prior years, but since being taken over by the Bavarian government, English was not being encouraged. It is a pity - from the reaction of the audience, it seemed that insights were being provided!! I appears that as 50,000 tickets are available over the course of the festival, and there are 500,000 requests for them, so no concessions need to be made.
Anyway, the walk down the hill from the Festspielhaus was lovely....
......with a (handsomer than most) bust of Cosima..
...a symbolic Ring
...and other generally artistic stuff....
And now, finally, we are at the opera....
(How do you like my "Gotterdamerung" outfit? Took up half the room in my suitcase, it did...) Below, last shot of our new friend Don and Bob...
.... and in what seems like a blink of an eye (really five and a half hours), it is over, and time for curtain calls.
I will leave those of you who are interested to check cast lists, etc. Generally speaking, I will say that the Sigfried was not very well received (he is a Canadian too - oh well!), the Brunhilde was very well received, as were all other singers and orchestra, conductor and chorus master. And parting thoughts. There was more food, drink and smoking (all real) in these operas than I have seen in my entire life, more blood and violence (simulated), ditto, and that is saying something, and likewise, more sex (whether simulated or not, I am not quite sure). And, having seen the whole Ring, I have concluded that, in spite of getting in the way of the music sometimes, the staging got everyone talking about Wagner's meaning, the philosophy, and art in general. And that is what it is all about!!
So, tomorrow, on the way to Munich, the home of National Socialism. ....
But first, a few adventures. For example, having asked for a taxi to take me up to the Festspielhaus, I went to use the public washroom - and found that the inner door handle had been removed and I was locked in! And, fancy as the hotel was, there was no telephone in the bathroom! (and yes, Bill, I have to admit, it would have been nice to have my phone!!! ) Anyway, after only a few minutes of banging on the door and asking for "Hilfe", I was duly rescued, no harm done except to my ego,\.
The lecture on Gotterdamerung at the Festspielhaus was completely in German, with not a crib sheet to be found. Unfortunately, what I could understand was the stuff I already knew. Anything about the director (Castor, famous German theater director who has never done an opera before) and his vision went right over my head. (A fellow patron tried to give me the Coles Notes version, but it wasn't quite the same. I did find out that the director is 64, gay, and from East Germany, all of which have informed his work.)
New friends Birgitte and Hennig provided some insight on the copulating crocodile - I kid you not - though. Apparently it is a standard in German puppet theater. The crocodile part, not the copulating part. In the puppet theater, the crocodile is content with eating its prey!! Both Peter and I had noticed the almost total lack of English in and around the Festival. Admittedly, the Festival is only a week, and there is no reason to visit Bayreuth otherwise, but still... From German's who had been to the festival before, we learned that there had been more English translations available in prior years, but since being taken over by the Bavarian government, English was not being encouraged. It is a pity - from the reaction of the audience, it seemed that insights were being provided!! I appears that as 50,000 tickets are available over the course of the festival, and there are 500,000 requests for them, so no concessions need to be made.
Anyway, the walk down the hill from the Festspielhaus was lovely....
......with a (handsomer than most) bust of Cosima..
...a symbolic Ring
...and other generally artistic stuff....
And now, finally, we are at the opera....
(How do you like my "Gotterdamerung" outfit? Took up half the room in my suitcase, it did...) Below, last shot of our new friend Don and Bob...
I will leave those of you who are interested to check cast lists, etc. Generally speaking, I will say that the Sigfried was not very well received (he is a Canadian too - oh well!), the Brunhilde was very well received, as were all other singers and orchestra, conductor and chorus master. And parting thoughts. There was more food, drink and smoking (all real) in these operas than I have seen in my entire life, more blood and violence (simulated), ditto, and that is saying something, and likewise, more sex (whether simulated or not, I am not quite sure). And, having seen the whole Ring, I have concluded that, in spite of getting in the way of the music sometimes, the staging got everyone talking about Wagner's meaning, the philosophy, and art in general. And that is what it is all about!!
So, tomorrow, on the way to Munich, the home of National Socialism. ....
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